Tongariro Northern Circuit - The Adventure

Hi All,

As you all know we spent a fair few days in Taupo waiting for the weather to clear so we could begin the 4 day trek that is 'The Northern Circuit' in Tongariro National Park (Central North Island) - on of New Zealand's 9 Great Walks.

We arrived in Whakapapa (the start of the walk) to beautiful weather as you can see from the photo so we decided we would start the walk the following day.

The larger mountain to the right is Mt Ngurohoe (more famously Mount Doom in Lord of the Rings). To the left is the smaller Mt. Tongariro. The full walk takes us a good way up Ngurohoe, then across to Tongariro.

Day One: Whakapapa Village - Mangetepopo Hut (9km, 4hours)

Despite some rain we set of on Friday morning as the weather at the weekend promised to be decent enough. We rainproofed ourselves and set off for a fairly muddy slog to Mangetepopo Hut. We saw little asides from scrub land thanks to the cloud, but passed a pleasant evening alone in the hut (we saw zero people on the walk all day). Arriving at Mangatepopo hut meant that we would be all set for the next day - which would be part of the famous Tongariro Crossing (often cited as being the best one day tramp in New Zealand and by some as one of the best one day walks in the world).

Day Two: Mangatepopo Hut - Ketatahi Hut (10km, 7hours)

We awoke to a dusting of snow but our friendly Japanese Hut warden promised the walk would be do-able. The weather quickly became beautiful with bright blue sky and bright sunlight falling on the shimmering snow. We ascended steeply up to the saddle between Mount Ngurohoe and Mount Tongariro. The higher we got the thicker the snow became and parts were icy. Laura had a mild panic attack on an icy ledge with a steep drop to the side - Niall saved the day carrying both packs. As we continued to climb the saddle between the moutains (reaching 1886meters at the Red Crater) the stunning views of the emerald lakes awaited us.

It was amongst the most beautiful landscapes I think either of us had ever seen - made all the more stunning by the snow. Indeed a Kiwi guide that we met (who must have done it a thousand times) said it was the most beautiful he had seen it. Photos do not do it justice. The other good news was that Ketatahi hut was downhill from there! So we began a leisurely walk past the Emerald and Blue Lakes to Ketatahi Hut. A tough walk certainly but a beautiful one - and despite the snow and ice the weather was good and we had the toughest bit behind us (or so we thought...)

Day Three: Ketatahi - Waihohonu Hut (16km, 7hours)

We awoke early on Sunday to the sunrising over the beautiful landscape of Lake Rotoaira and Lake Taupo beyond. The weather forecast for Sunday was the best yet so we set off in decent spirits despite some rather ominous looking clouds. After some tricky downward (and slightly icy) slopes and ridges the landscape became quite beautifully volcanic. Snow began falling (better than rain) and wasnt settling so everyhting seemed just fine. The trekking was quite tough, but manageable. Lots of ups and downs but the landscape made it worthwhile - the snow lending the huge lava chunks a msyterious air. The snow began to settle and we descended into forest. It felt like walking into Narnia (or any such fantasy possibilities).


We trekked up and down through the forest for over an hour before reaching the welcome warmth of the hut. There was a large group of Argentinians and a couple of Germans. A very friendly group - we, however, were shattered and asleep at 8.30pm both keen to get a good nights sleep for an early start. Both groups had completed the stretch of the walk we were due to start the next day and completed the 14km in 4 hours. It was due to be the easiest section of the walk so the snow (getting heavier by now) was no worry to us. We were off the mountain and at relatively low altitude.

Day Four: Waihohonu to Whakapapa Village (14km, 8 hours)

Probably the toughest day of our lives! We awoke to thick, thick snow. However, the walk was meant to be easy so, expecting it to take a little longer than the estimated 4 hours we wrapped up warm and made an early (8.30am) start. Out of the forest and into the valley the snow remained thick (between 30 and 60cm). Walking through snow like that is unbeliveably draining on your legs and very slow (especially for Laura). We were also soon pretty wet as the snow came over the top of our boots and soaked up underneath our waterproof trousers. A couple of hours in, cold and tired we realised the walk was going to take a lot longer than we thought, but mistakenly thought we were further along the track than we were so pressed on. The snow did not let up for a moment, and Laura struggled to keep up. We had to keep going for warmth. Once again the hero (insert - Laura is writing this by the way), Niall took both packs so Laura could walk a bit quicker. Six hours in we saw a sign that signified where we were. However, we had taken that long to complete a 3 hours stretch and were fearful that we would now finish after dark.

Fifteen minutes later we saw a heavenly sight - footprints!!! We followed them up to a crest and saw... brown! Ground that was not covered in snow! As we descended the walk became easier and our pace quickened warming us up and sending our adrenalin levels up! Laura (still unladen by packs) stormed ahead and was able to see Whakapapa in the distance. We completed the last part of the walk to scheduled time and were in the hotel and soaking our bones in the shower by 5pm. Starving we indulged in a three course meal in a local bistro before getting a very, very early (and most importantly) warm night beneath our duvets.

Thankfully we were well equipped for our walk. We were concerned about the Argentinians (half of whom wore trainers and jeans) and hoped they had made the sensible decision to stay in the hut (when we left they were still asleep). We informed the DOC of how tough the walk had been and asked them to check on the Argentinians. We learnt the next day that two of the group had a got into trouble and dialled 111. Mountain Rescue was dispatched. In the end all the group made it to safety.

Now in Wellington it is scarcely believeable as the sun shines and the temperature is a warm 15 or so degrees celsius. Mountains are indeed beautiful but dangerous things and the weather is fast to change (and does not listen to weather forecasters).

Ruff - he can't understand what the fuss was all about - his coat was quite warm and could happily of trotted round in two days flat!


4 days makes a big difference!!